Random Photos from the last road trip to Juneau, Alaska.
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The Road to Juneau

6/2005

Alaska Road Trip Route
Day 29 & 30 850 Miles I really pushed hard yesterday 730 miles. I wanted to try and make it into the US and past Ottawa while there was no traffic. Got past Ottawa but fell about 30 miles short of the States. I rested for a few hours at a truck stop (can't call it sleep in Green Destiny) and am just finishing up now. I'm in Champlain NY at a McDonalds.

Here's the recap! The later part of the North Shore transit was lovely ! The Trans Canada goes through a provincial park with lots of sand beaches to stop at and I did - foot dragging the whole way. After that the Trans Canada skirts Lake Huron with more great lake views. When I got to North Bay it was time to make a the call - stop for the night or push on. The sky was clear and full of stars the moon nearly full and dead ahead. I pushed on. It would be best to go by Ottawa during off hours and miss any traffic.

I'm just about an hour from home now and stopped for breakfast.

It's been a great trip - I hope you have all enjoyed following along. There will be quite a few more photos posted and I'll send out a few notes as they go up. Including one on the Green Destiny setup which a few have asked about.

Day 28 433 Miles Spectacular day for a drive along the north shore. Stopped for breakfast at a Mary's Pies, checked out the National Monument at Grand Portage, passed through Thunder Bay, watched the sunset at Marathon and ended up in White River.   Just about 800 or so more miles to go. 

The Trans Canada Highway is really nice between Thunder Bay and Marathon. Lots of overlooks, hills and curvy roads. It was very scenic.  There must be a large forest fire nearby - the sky was smoky and the sunset very red. The full moon also rose as a blood red disc.  The mosquitoes were ferocious so I only took a few photos of that. Tomorrow I'll hit Sault St. Marie and from there I'll be covering the same ground I did on the way out. 

The last part of a road trip is always a drag. You get into a rhythm of traveling every day and seeing something new.  Now every mile you drive is one closer to the end.  It will be nice to be home again and let weather come to me instead of driving away from it. I notice that all the places I've been have been getting hit with really bad weather. Hmmmmm

Day 27 475 Miles Last night was a bit scary - just as I was going to sleep there was a Severe Thunderstorm Warning for Bismarck with penny sized HAIL!  I got on the weather channel web site and tracked the satellite image and decided I'd be OK and wouldn't have to hit the road to get off it's track. There was just a bit of rain.

Today's goal was to get to the north shore of Lake Superior and that I did.  Stopped off in Fargo to see if folks really talk like they did in the movie by the same name. Well, it turns out that accent is more of a northern Minnesota thing, women do it more than men and it comes from the Scandinavian ancestry of the early settlers. But the waitress at the restaurant Bob and I ate at last night, had it. You Bet 'chya!  

Fargo is just a largish mid western town - that has a nasty winter. Hot today though. Oh, I looked for a good place to stop at www.roadfood.com came up with Widman's Candy.  They have two specialties: Chocolate covered potato chips and hot air.  The chips are exactly that and it actually works somehow.  The hot air is hard to explain: if you took a marshmallow and baked it till the whole thing was that golden brown color all through - let it harden and then dipped it in Chocolate, you'd have it.  Sorry folks I couldn't bring any back - it would be a puddle. Besides, David is isn't eating Chocolate anymore.

The drive across the "Land of Lakes" was uneventful, The roads were very nice (WI 34 and WI 200). I guess being a land of lakes also makes Minnesota a land of mosquitoes.  I didn't stop much.  I did get gas for $1.99/gallon - probably the last time that will ever happen.

I got to the North Shore at Duluth and continued to Two Harbors when the sun set.  They have been getting tremendous amounts of rain in this area but the roads seem OK. I never know it but this is an area that grows lots of wild rice.  

Day 26 80 Miles I guess it was bound to happen eventually. I'm just ready to leave Bismarck after shooting the Capitol and a 1965ish blue Corvette pulls up. Out steps a fellow who intrudes himself as "Bullet Bob". You may have guessed it, it's another guy visiting state capitols. Well he's only doing 49 (22 so far) and the Canadian Provinces (not the territories - no Yellow Knife). So I could not resist hanging back and having dinner with Bullet and swapping stories. I also did some laundry and finally finished posting all the photos from Alaska.

The short trip from Hazen started by dealing with the pool of water that was left on my tonneau top from the storm that passed through last night. Quite a racket - sideways rain and lots of lightning. But in the morning the sun was shining and I took off on the Lewis and Clark trail stopping at the expedition's winter headquarters 1805/6.  There is lots of Lewis and Clark history here - even two roads named 1806 and 1804 after the years when the expedition passed through.

After a while I can't help but wonder at the result. Lewis and Clark managed an an amazing endeavor exploring a huge territory and meeting many Native Americans. I have to read more on the expedition. What did they tell the chiefs they met? Did they know what would happen to those tribes they met, many of which helped them along the way, after just 100 years?

Day 25 645 Miles Today was easy traveling through Lewis and Clark country. You see signs everywhere. I guess it was their expedition that told the folks back east what was out here.
I took a route suggested in my byways book along MT 200. An area that "still looks much the way it did when Lewis and Clark passed through". Leaving Helena I passed through the Big and Little Belt Mountains which made for some great riding, smooth curves over lots of hills. The only hitch was a convoy or wide loads - we're talking really wide - both lanes. You just had to follow along until they decided to stop at a pull out and let you pass. This had to be done in stages since the convey was so big.

Then it was prairie, range and plains. Yep Montanans drive fast. Green Destiny has a six speed gear box. It also has a small, 1.8 liter engine, so it doesn't develop good hill climbing torque until about 4000+ RPMs. The problem being that in sixth doing 70 (posted limit) you are doing about 3500 RPMS. Not enough to climb big hills. So I was forced to keep it above 4000 and even hit 5000 occasionally. The roads are so straight and flat you can hardly perceive the speed. The weather is also very encouraging, blue sky ahead and massive thunder storms behind. I kept the top down the whole day, got sprinkled on a few times - but managed to stay ahead. It did catch up overnight. Man do they get storms out here! There was a little pool on Green Destiny's tonneau top.

The critters that cross the road have changed - now they are prairie dogs. Didn't quite make it to Bismarck - but close. I took a ride through the Theodore Roosevelt National Park at dusk. A small but lovely park through badlands like geology but more water. Ended up in Hazen, ND. Truly the heart land! It's biscuits and sausage gravy for breakfast!

Day 24 220 Miles Nothing quite like the sound of rain on your tent to wake you up, see if it's day light, and if it is - crash pack! It was only a light sprinkle but it was 630 so I packed before I had a sopping wet tent to put away. During breakfast at the KOA it really started to rain and that was the theme for the day - at least half of it. Man did I put the water shedding aspect of my tires to the test - the worked.

I took a lovely scenic route along the Swan Range. Couldn't really see the Swans due to the rain and clouds but as I went through a 6000 foot pass, right at the pass, a mini front came through - the skies opened up, the sun came out and a rainbow popped out - below me. First time I think I ever looked down on a rainbow. It even went double for a bit. The wind made it pretty hard to shoot it - but I think I got a photo.

The weather was much better after that right into Helena. It's amazing what a difference these mountains can make - crappy on one side and nice on the other. Guess that's why there's rain forest on one side and of the cascades and desert on the other.

Helena is a fairly built up town - experiencing rapid growth. The capitol building may be the same as the South Dakota building but the town is not. Had a great dinner at a local micro brew house I found in my navigator, shot the capitol building - got to go inside again - just like South Dakota - the security is friendly and welcoming. You know the saying " . . . Keep your enemies closer." I was under surveillance the whole time - I saw the screens.

Day 23 340 Miles Got back into the US today. No problems either. Not even a "pop the trunk".

Leaving Creston I headed east on BC3, through Crowsnest Pass and more incredible Canadian Rockies. I crossed the continental divide, again (I've lost count), so I can get to Glacier National Park on the east side. Then it was back onto the prairies for a bit.

Had lunch in a cool "Muddy Waters" type place in Blairmore, AB I found on a free wireless Internet directory. Having a navigator that can take you to a street in a totally unknown town sure changes the way you feel about stopping.

Headed south on AB 6 you come to where "The Prairies Meet the Mountains". Pretty abrupt change. No foothills. It was warm and sunny up till then. I know when I see the motor cycles pulled over and the riders putting on their rain suits I had better put the top up. I did and it did rain! Very exciting driving through the mountains with lightning flashing all around.

OK, so I'm in Saint Mary, Montana at the east side of the "Going to the Sun Highway" and it's 19:30. The thunder storms stopped for the moment and looked like it might break up a bit. I get on-line and check the weather while eating an ice cream. Today: scattered thunder storms. Tomorrow: frequent thunder storms. So I decide to run it today.

I'd heard plenty about this road - but like so many things on this trip, I had seen photos, heard stories, even seen travel documentaries, but nothing compares to being there. The skies did open and I actually got some sunshine and even saw the moon. The GTSH is some 30 miles of cliff hugging, lake skirting, waterfall dodging, precipice looming, fallen rock strewn, seriously twisted mountain road. It's narrow in places but there was construction that narrowed it down to one lane. We're talking just barely enough room for Green Destiny. Not much of a guard rail either. More like a high curb. Better to let you see over the edge to where you would fall if you missed a curve. JP, you would not have liked it.

My timing was good. As I have said on other road trips - when doing a National Park loop - do it at the end of the day an hour or two before sunset when all the RVs will have left for their night spots. I didn't see one PO and had quite the time. Very demanding. There are lots of things to avoid with quite a few rocks on the road, implying that they are falling all the time. I hesitated to stop for fear of having one fall on Green Destiny. The biggest problem was the change in traction as you transition from a dry bit of road to one covered with waterfall spray. How they keep this road in better shape then Yellowstone is beyond me.

There is lots of wildlife, mostly deer - but it's pretty ho hum. They are usually standing on the side of the road. You slow down, they stare at you as you pass. If you make a move to stop and to take a photo, they take off into the woods. Pretty smart.

I camped at a KOA in West Glacier. Pretty daring considering the forecast. Tomorrow we'll see how that worked out. Should be easy driving from here on. I wonder what I'll be photographing.

Day 22 250 Miles Revelstoke is an interesting town. Lots to see and do so I check out a hydro electric dam and drive the summit parkway to the top of Revelstoke Mountain. I'm amazed how all these RVs just have to drive even the steepest and twistiest road. It's unnerving to come around a 180 hairpin turn down shift hit the gas only to see a lumbering RV in front of you.

At breakfast a little guidance suggests taking a complex route with lots of curvey roads. There are also two free ferries. One supposedly the longest free ferry in North America. I didn't know there were any. But at the first ferry crossing there is a breakdown. That hurts and costs quite a few miles for today but it does give me the chance to talk to people. Seems the Canadians are suffering from a political crisis. "We always thought they were crooks, now we know it."  Oh well - welcome to the real world.

Canada is full of surprises. Not only are there people living where you don't think people should be but you will come across a golf course in what seems like the middle of nowhere.

Lots of the roads I covered today skirted inland lakes, many man made, with mountains right down to the shores. I'm getting a bit pickier at what I'll stop to photograph there is just so much beauty it becomes quite commonplace. The weather was lovely and although I didn't make many miles it was a great day ending up in Creston, BC.

Day 21  255 Miles Back on the road.  Luck was on my side, I caught flights that got me to Calgary 8 hours before my reserved trip. I Only had to run through the airport a little, but on the plus side I didn't have to wait for a connection. 

The boys at Sunridge Mazda did a great job on Green Destiny. Reminds me of the way the tin man was pampered in the Wizard of Oz when they get to Emerald City. One thing though, they were real thorough: Glove Box, console compartment - emptied and cleaned. All the STUFF was in a big plastic bag. Funny how when it's all together like that you can see how much it weighs. But after an hour or so of reassembly I was ready to go. 

Sun was shining when I landed but when I finally got on the road it was overcast and looking toward Banff there were clouds and rain in the mountains. I made Banff easily, had a nice rib dinner and then headed off to check out the Canadian Glacier National Park.  Crossed Roger's Pass and began the search for a place with high speed internet service. I decided to continue on to Revelsstoke   An interesting looking town I think. I'll see tomorrow.

There are a few things I noticed while traveling though the mountains.  There are these signs that say "avalanche area - no stopping." A bit unnerving because some of these roads are just cut right through with cliffs that go straight up on one side and nearly straight down on the other.  There is plenty of signs of cleared avalanches too. I had the top up at this point but I don't think it would help.

 I can't imagine what winter is like here but these roads are kept open and considering the terrain are surprisingly sedate. There are many ski area, although nothing like the scale we have in Colorado. If you are an expert skier and looking for a challenge - this would be a hell of a place - base in Banff or Revelstoke and hit all the spots between. It would be a ski adventure to remember.  What's bowl skiing? I seen ads for that.

Day 20 650 Miles Got a bit of everything today in terms of weather. I saw 70s and sunny to low 50s and torrential downpour.  Road wise I saw it all too. From excellent paved to loose gravel.  You know, they say the Al Can (Alaska Highway) is all paved.  Don't believe it for a second!  There must always be some section under renovation. I saw plenty of gravel, both on the Al Can and back on the Klondike. Then there are the roads not quite so far gone which they would just patch. These were worse! Sometimes I felt like I was at the autocross. You really have to stay on your toes, there are all sorts of things you can hit from rocks, to animals, to bits of cars, trucks and tires.

I must have hit the northerly migration of snow birds. There was an endless strings of RVs headed northwest. I talked to a few at the gas pump. These babies are lucky if they get 10 miles to the gallon. I saw gas for $1.10/liter which translate to about $4/gallon. Those I spoke to said it was hurting.

Today took me through Jasper and Banff national parks (Canadian).  There was one moment where as I looked at the mountains ahead, and the road I was on leading up to it - I swallowed hard. But this is Canada - things only look rough.  The road was really an engineering work of art. Very easy traveling and extremely scenic  The weather was quite variable and hopefully made for some very dramatic shots.  The high point was when a wolf crossed the road ahead and paused on the side just at the edge of the forest. I stopped and it looked out with that exact same look you see on the wildlife calendars. Nope - didn't get that one on "film", don't have a telephoto lens either so . . .

Day ended in Banff, Alberta. Banff is an upscale  tourist destination town nestled in the Canadian Rockies. I imagine this is what a Swiss or Italian Alps village must look like. A quaint village with a backdrop of very high, close and craggy mountains.  Unfortunately I only saw it in the dark. I'll pick up from there when I get back.

Now our little adventure will take a break as I must return to the real world for a week.  Green Destiny will be pampered at a Calgary Mazda dealer.  This car has earned it. No matter what we encountered whenever I pressed the accelerator there is always an eagerness, no matter how steep the climb or curvy the road. Not one complaint about the gravel. We'd plod through and then off we'd go. It's not often I feel that an inanimate object has a spirit. The only other is a sailboat when balanced on the wind, it seems alive.  Green Destiny has it too. Point it down an open road and it seems to take off on it's own.  It's got an attitude.

Day 19 575 Miles Today was payback for all the good weather. Rained or was extremely foggy for a good part of the day, through what was probably the best scenery. I couldn't really tell because it was too fogy. But the consolation is that I stopped less and made more than 500  miles easily.

The coolest thing was a Lake Muncho. It's a fairly high altitude fresh water lake with turquoise water. You would swear you were in the Caribbean. 

The terrain flattened out into agricultural land and the road was straighter. Posted speeds 100 kph with most doing 120 so it's cruise control and CDs. Canada is an odd mix of rural sophistication.

Day 18 434 Miles I Hung out down town a bit in the morning. It was swamped with cruise boat tourists. The ferry was scheduled for a 12:30 departure so I had to be there at 10:30. I filled up on relatively cheap Alaskan gas at $2.50 a gallon.

This ferry was a much nicer ride. It was a catamaran type boat and hit a top speed of 36 knots! Quite fast.  It was cloudy when we left Juneau but the skies broke once we got to Skagway.

Skagway is at the end of a fiord with mountains closing in on you as you approach.  The ride in is really something. You just begin to get a sense of "The Real Alaska". Mountains and glaciers everywhere.  Skagway is also a tourist town but with a bit more character. The scenery is incredible.

We land at 1530 Alaska time and I have to make Calgary by noon on the 5th so there is not time for dilly dallying. The Klondike Highway which connects Skagway to the "AlCan"I starts off at sea level and climbs to 3000 feet in 11 miles. It's a truly amazing road and feels like you are on the top of the world.

Crossing Canadian Customs was smooth and the ride through the Yukon was Great. I made it to Watsons Lake. It's so weird to be driving along at 2300 and it's still light out. We haven't even hit the solstice yet - that would explain the midnight golf advertisements I occasionally see.

Day 17 0 miles Landed in Juneau a few hours late. The ferry we ended up on was fairly slow around 19 mph.  But it was a fairly nice day and finally arriving in Juneau was exciting.

Juneau is now a destination for cruise ships. There were three in town while we were there. To show you the priority the town places on the tourism industry: the cruise ships dock right in town. The ferry dock is 13 miles away!.  Naturally you see the same things you see in any cruise ship town, tee shirt shops, gift shops etc. Of course there are native art shops too but they are very expensive. But what the heck is Caribbean Jewelry doing in Juneau, Alaska. Go figure.

So I did drive out to the Mendenhall Glacier. That is pretty cool. I actually was there when some chunks fell off. The ice is an amazing blue color - hope the photos show it.

I went off to shoot the capitol.  Man was that anticlimactic! Biggest state, smallest capitol.

Rounded out the day with a nice meal at the recommended best local food restaurant. Twisted Fish.

Day 16 177 Miles More hurry up and wait. The ferry sails at 1000 Pacific time. Yesterday when they checked me in they told me to be at the dock at 0600. What they don't tell me is that they operate on Alaska time which is the ships time. So it's about a three hour wait before they start loading. 

It's very entertaining though because the bulk of the vehicles are an RV club that all met up in Idaho and are traveling as a caravan. Green Destiny is nestled in amongst them all and can't see a thing. There was one RV from Vermont so we did get to trade war stories. My flat in the Hoh Rain Forest is getting lots of mileage.

It turns out that the ferry we end up on is much smaller then the originally scheduled one and there are only half the cabins. As a result there are people sacked out all over. All the nice recliners get snapped up quickly.  

We make three stops along the way to Juneau: Ketchikan, Wrangle and Petersburg, not enough time to get off the boat though. People on board are very chatty, each has a story, like the couple relocating from Guam as a Coast Guard reassignment. The husband, who might be a Guam native, does not look at all happy.

Lots of wildlife to see, porpoises, an occasional breaching whale, birds. The inward passage is the same area the Alaska cruise ships  cover: mountains, glaciers and fiords. It's pretty narrow in some places. Very dramatic.

Day 15 0 Miles So the ferry I want to get on leaves Prince Rupert today, the 30th, and arrives in Juneau on the 1st at 8:30. I get up very early and head down to the ferry dock. I'm met at the car line up and explain my goal. I'm informed that NO ONE will be going to Juneau - the ferry had a malfunction.  So much for my master plan. Now I am resigned to the ferry leaving on the 31st, meaning I will depart Juneau on the 2nd.

So what to do with the day!  Since the hotel I stayed in had wireless internet I camped out in the restaurant hoping to catch up a bit on posting photos. Listening to the conversations around me, you can tell there is something odd about the weather. The primary topic of conversation is sunscreen, or forgetting to put on sunscreen, or not enough etc. It seems that Prince Rupert rarely sees the sun and the last few days have been quite a fluke, reeking havoc with the delicate BC complexion. In fact I have not put my top up once since that morning in Yellowstone. 

To get some ideas on what to do I ask a local group in the restaurant and a young women tells me about the non tourist map attractions: A shoe tree, a secret garden and a native rock painting.  She actually shows me the tree and garden. But the rock painting is 30 Km out of town the way I came last night. I figure, great, I'll get to see what I missed during the last part of my ride in.  It's still a nice top down sunny day.  So that's what I did. Found it too.

The day length thing is getting to be a problem. I get back from my outing at about 2230 and it isn't dark!  I'm just ready for dinner. I did find an open Greek place.  It's just really hard to go to sleep while it's still light! I need just a couple hours of dark.  So I end up staying up later and later and it's catching up with me.  Well tomorrow I have to be on the dock at 0600 and hopefully I will be off to Juneau. The ferry ride will take about 24 hours.

Day 14 743 Miles  Long day! So the plan was to get to Prince Rupert so I can try to get on standby for the Ferry that leaves on the 30th. It arrives in Juneau two hours before the one I have a reservation on.  If I could get on, I could leave Juneau the same day I arrive and get more time for the next leg to Calgary.

I started early from Spences Bridge.  Had breakfast at the "Bear Claw" with Dave and Maureen and then put the pedal to the metal. The scenery quickly becomes less dramatic: Range and agriculture, pretty but not photo taking worthy. BC1 and 97 are excellent roads with speeds set at 100 kph for long stretches. Most folks traveling around 110. It's great working in kilometers. If you've got 250 to go that's 2.5 hours.

As I start getting closer to Prince Rupert the mountains begin to reappear. There have been plenty of mountains before this. But there is something more significant about these. Maybe it's the jaggedness or the glaciers streaming down. Very impressive. I hope the photos show it.

The long days also contribute to more travel. It's still twilight at 2200.  I pushed on to Prince Rupert hoping to get near the front of the wait list. We shall see. The terminal opens at 0500.

Day 13 467 Miles Well the quick trip to the Hoh Rain Forest turned out to be a bit longer than expected. Everything was going fine till I noticed Green Destiny was pulling a bit to the right. Got to the Hoh parking area OK. Took a look and the  right front tire was nearly flat. Nearest town was Forks, some 30 miles with some twisty road between me and it. I had passed through it on the way to Hoh. I moved a rear tire to the front and put the spare on the rear to help with the curves.  It actually wasn't bad at all. Just took some time to switch.

Now here is the deal with the spare. It fits very nicely in a well in the trunk, on top of which is all my stuff. So I take everything out and go to put the regular wheel in there and no way is it going to fit. It won't even fit in the trunk period! Even with everything out. So It has to ride in the passenger seat. Maybe it's good that no one joined up with this trip.

After that ordeal - I got under way and drove off the Peninsula  on US 101 to Port Townsand. GREAT RIDE! It runs along Lake Aldwell with great views and nice curves. Took the Ferry to Whidbey Island and drove on WA20 to cross Deception Pass, then onto I5 for a bit to cross the border at Sumas. No problems this time!

BC 1 is the route I took once in Canada and it is really something. It runs along the sides of a canyon with a raging river running below. It has long tunnels cut through the rock, a few of which are pretty long and curved. The big trucks really like to hug those curves. Good thing Green Destiny doesn't take much room. I hooked up with a couple form Providence,  RI and we drove together (well they followed at some distance) till it got dark around 2200. They got the last room and  I'm camped out at Spences Bridge. Got a dialup connection here in the club room hence I'm posting now while I have the chance.

Day 12 186  Miles Was out kind of late with my Seattle friend so got a late start, did laundry and headed out to the Olympic Peninsula. Took a while to get over on the ferry - quite a long line, although a short ferry ride.

First stop Hurricane Ridge. Your typical twisty road to the top with great views, in this case of the Olympic mountains.  A ranger pulled up to me while I was snapping and asked about the navigator. He thinks that in a few years when they are standard equipment, since they have points of interest built in,  it should be possible to do away with bill boards. Nice idea!

After that I decided to camp out at a more out of the way camp ground since I was seeing lots of people, it  being the  Memorial Day weekend. It's on the shore of Lake Ozette.  The road into this campground had to be 20 miles of the most twisted road I've ever driven. In this case it's twisted cause it goes along a shore line, so it is somewhat level and also goes through semi rain forest. People from Vermont keep popping up. Met another couple that are working at the campground general store. They found it on the internet and just came out.  They wanted to check out the Peninsula.

Very sunny, and actually quite hot. In the 80s. I even ran the A/C a bit. Tomorrow I will make a quick trip into the rain forest and then get started to Prince Ruppert.  I hope to get across the border and maybe 200 miles or so. Making it to Prince George would be nice.

Day 11 376 Miles Day 11 was sort of a non scenery event.  Back to the Coast Highway through Oregon back roads - that was very nice. This part of Oregon is quite agricultural. I saw all sorts of crops, including hops. The little bit of OR 101 left was also nice, but in Washington the character changes. More wooded - less shore. I went over the Astoria Bridge! Frightening! Very high. Drove along the Columbia on WA 401.  I can see why this is windsurfing Mecca. WINDY! Then it's off to Olympia and I get to town a bit early. So naturally when in Washington, you stop in coffee place. (not Starbucks).

So I check in with the Alaska Marine Ferry and find that the first sailing for Juneau from Prince Rupert is 5/30!!  This will make for some tight days. I also have been rushing a bit to make sure I have time on the section though Banff!  I was planning to sail on the 29th. So now I have to hurry up and wait.

Olympia is a very nice Capitol with Mt. Rainier visible from the city. It is quite imposing even though it is 40 miles away.

I met up with a friend in Seattle and she recommends I check out the Olympic Peninsula: mountains, rain forest, quaint villages, beaches etc. So that's what I will be doing on day 12. That and laundry.

Stay dry! Another sunny day here!

Day 10 359 Miles  As I'm packing up getting ready to leave from the motel I stopped at in the Cascades, I notice how there is the sound of water rushing everywhere.  And another thing is that the air is filled with the smell of these forests. Mostly a pine smell, but it isn't pine, Doug Fir or Spruce or Sequoias.  Occasionally I get a strong small of fungus. Not a bad smell but the kind of smell when you pickup a fresh Portabella Mushroom and smell it. Rich earthy, mellow. Makes me want to stop and look for them.

The rest of the drive down from Crater Lake was lovely. The trees are really impressive.  This is clearly where all our lumber comes from. The logging trucks sometimes have only 3 logs on board and they FILL THE TRUCK. 

I hate to say this but it's HOT. Day 10 was Into the 80s, sunscreen, A/C and shades required.  I made it to the west coast! The small segment of the coast highway I drove was a bit slow but oh the scenery. What could be better than driving along coast on a twisty road 500-1000 feet above the Ocean shore. Each curve opens onto a new vista, with waves breaking on a beach below, an occasional lighthouse and more blue sky ahead.

Green Destiny is such a trooper I decided to get an oil change earlier than planned. That run through the Sawtooth was very demanding. My new ground support crew - Tom Brown - arranged an oil change in Salem at Power Mazda. I had to put the hammer down to make it but I did. Great dealership. Took the Capitol shot, hit a Motel 6 and it will be off in an hour or so. Back to the coast highway and then Olympia. 

Day 9 534 Miles Primary scenic goal for Day 9 was Crater Lake. My navigator took me on US 20 across something called the Harney Basin and then into Christmas Valley.  I've  never seen a more empty place with straighter flatter roads.  In the plains and open range you see signs of civilization, fences, a shed here and there, but here - nothing but scrub brush for miles and miles!  These are the longest stretches with no gas I've seen too. I think I saw a sign last gas for 68 miles. Green Destiny's brakes got a work out though. The wildlife likes to park on the road, but you can see it from miles off and slow down. Rabbits with these huge ears seem to be the most common.

Finally got into the Cascades and man are those trees huge! Great road leading up to Crater Lake. I got there around sunset so stayed for that. I hoped to wait for the moon rise but it was too late. Crater Lake is known for having cobalt blue water.  Can't confirm that - still frozen. But I did meet two folks from Vermont.  They had just arrived to work for the summer at the lodge in the park.  Vermont licenses plates are pretty rare in these parts so every time I stop folks say - "Are you really from Vermont?"

The ride down was in the dark. First night driving I've done on the trip. Kept the top down even though it was 45 degrees. The sky was clear with lots of stars.  Driving along on 138 with these huge trees on both sides lit only by head lights, it was like driving though a steep canyon.  Huge trees, a twisty road and a ribbon of star filled sky. One of those surreal moments.  Had to stop when I saw a hotel sign that said "Last hotel for 78 miles".

Day 8 598 Miles   Started out very early from Norris Campground, on the road by 7:AM it was foggy and low cloud cover through the rest of the transit through Yellowstone. I was almost out of gas so that helped limit my stopping. To those that said - be sure and visit the mud pots - I didn't Sorry!  But I did go to Artists Point.

Ever since I heard the story of Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox as a little boy, I've always wanted to visit the Grand Tetons. It has been a life goal. Oh I've seen the pictures and nature shows, but I have to say they are the most breathtaking thing I have ever seen in the flesh.  The power of this sight can make one swoon!  The clouds broke as I transited, making for a very dramatic sky. I drove up to Jenny Lake where I actually had internet access and received a message from the ALK support guy Rob Raia. I had to call Verizon Tech support to get it up but now a bunch of support guys at Verizon are tracking the trip too.  

I passed through Jackson and then off to Boise via the Saw Tooth Mountains. What the Tetons were for me, the Saw Tooth was for Green Destiny.  A Fabulous pair of scenic byways that lead through the heart of the Saw Tooth through high plateaus, plenty of winding twisting road many lined with raging streams and rivers. Fisherman heaven! (Bill).  For the Miata nuts from Vermont - think of a 100 mile Appalachian Gap with bigger mountains, bigger trees, bigger road and much more sunshine. I did the whole 160 miles in 3 hours including stops for pics.  I drove . . .  efficiently.

It was top down all day except for a bit in the morning (cold). The weather continues to be a problem - way too much sunshine for good progress. Just looked out side - yep another sunny on tap for Day 9.

For those sending messages via the Live Map. THANKS - it's nice to get those from time to time. Keep 'em short and try to form a questions since the interface I see assumes that and I have to hit a button to answer. Oh a few have said they don't see the live map.  Click on one of the resize icons to make it display if it doesn't automatically.

Day 7: 367 Miles  More bad luck on miles covered. The weather was spectacular and the sites keep getting better. What a shame.

Left Sheridan with hopes of making it to the Tetons via Yellowstone. I had two mountain passes on the agenda - Big Horn and Bear Tooth Pass. Big Horn was GREAT. Tons of snow but the roads were clear. Bear Tooth was another story - that was closed and it cost me an hour to back track and take an alternate scenic route. Booo Hoooo.  GD was ready to eat that Bear Tooth! Oh well next time.

Hit Yellowstone about 1730. I had a zig zag planned but was informed that I'd never make it through by dark. Speed limits and wild animals.  It was true. As a consolation prize I had to camp in Yellowstone. That's where I am as I write. I'm at the Norris Campground at about 7,200 feet. The wind is blowing through the trees and the camp ground is full.

Anybody that hasn't been to Yellowstone and has any interest in natural beauty (this excludes you Dylan) - get your but in gear and plan a visit. BUT try to do it as off season as you can. There are lots of great lodges and the fishing must be really something. I'm here at a good time. I'm seeing very little traffic. But I have to say there is something off putting about stopping to take a photo of something that 10 other people are shooting - many with much bigger lenses.

The wildlife is everywhere.  You have your buffalo, your elk, your bear, your mule deer, I guess there was a cougar too. The guy behind me said it crossed the road in front of him and just behind me.

Tomorrow I need to get to Boise. I'm running out of slack time.

Day 6: 329 Miles Progress was hampered today by great scenery and weather! Went to Deadwood, and Devils Tower. Just a few miles of interstate made me remember why I avoid them. BORING! Drove through the Black hills of South Dakota and Wyoming. Instead of I90 between Gillette and Sheridan I took US 14/16. This is cattle country. Open range as far as you can see. Stopped a few times and it's amazing how much is going on. Besides the normal background of wildlife sound, on the range you also get the cattle. Cowboys ride ATVs now but I still passed a number of rodeo arenas. The thing that gets me is the distances people that live here contend with.

Devils Tower was really impressive! You get very close and it's huge. It's easy to see why this is a spiritual place.

Deadwood was fun to see. It's the same place depicted in the HBO show "Deadwood" Just 150 or so  years earlier.

Stopped at an old general store in Aladdin and chatted with a large biker group, had some sour cream raisin pie and just plain enjoyed the spectacular day. The sky is so blue at 6000 feet and a bit cooler too. (I've got sunburned arms and neck)

All in all, a great day albeit low mileage.

Day 5:324 Miles Today included some real sight seeing. The badlands of South Dakota, Mt. Rushmore and the Crazy Horse monument. Not a lot of miles but some great sights.

The badlands are very interesting. Reminds me of sections of Big Bend in Texas. Fun roads to drive but every time you get into a rhythm some amazing sight comes up and you have to slow down to look or stop at a turn out.

I approached Mt Rushmore from SD 36 and then turned onto 16A to make a long drive up through Custer state park. The plains are great for making time but the Black Hills are much more fun to drive. This road was torturously twisted and Green Destiny reveled in it. I've seen 180 hairpins and even a more. But a 360 degree curve is just too much. Yep you end up going the same direction as you start but you are about 50 feet lower, or higher depending on which way you are headed.

There were NO TOURISTS yet. I Just had to make sure I didn't bump into any buffalo. Unfortunately I arrived after peak light conditions and it became overcast to boot. TAKE NOTE: see Mt. Rushmore between 9 and 11. Or as an alternative do what I did. Come back at night.

The Crazy Horse monument had the same problem - best viewed earlier.  So I killed time by going into Custer and having a decent meal for a change. RIBS! Set up  Camp at the Mt Rushmore KOA (they have wireless high speed internet at all campsites!) My camp site was next to a lovely pond, but the red wind blackbirds were making a racket at the crack of dawn so I'm typing this now. One just tried to make my tent their screaming post. 

Day 4:457 Miles I started out late -- some business and I had to replace a broken external cell phone Antennae. So, I didn't really get on the road until noon. The weather started out overcast and became SPECTACULAR: Sunny, as high as 80 degrees. I was top-downing through the plains of South Dakota. Many say they hate driving through the plains: maybe it's because I like sailing, or because I actually try to stay off the interstate, but I like them. The rolling hills remind me of waves and swells on the water. The sky is huge and there is still an echo of the past. You can easily imagine great herds of buffalo.

I love driving through the towns: some nearly dead, some striving. The back roads are great too. The speed limits are frequently 65 so you still cover ground but you get to dodge pheasant! Lots of them. The landscape is right up there next to you.

Since I started so late I didn't stop much for photos -- very difficult to give a sense of the space anyway. There is so little traffic, when you do stop, you hear all sorts of sounds. Many unfamiliar bird calls, frogs, and insects. It's so quiet, empty, open . . . I can't imagine what it's like to live in the plains now, let alone 100-150 years ago.

So, I'm 10 miles from Pierre and I'm still in the plains! Yep Pierre pops up out of the middle of the plains and there isn't much around it. Unlike a number of other states, the Capitol Cop, instead of hassling me, offers to take me on a private tour of the inside of the Capitol! That's right. It was tres cool!
Day 3:570 miles The weather started out great: 60s with sun shine! I took Lake Shore Drive along the southern shore of Lake Superior. My planned route was looking like I'd hit St. Paul quite late, so I deleted a few way points and presto-- new route and I made it by sunset. It did not matter since I ran into thunder storms and had to stop under an over pass to put the top up.

Before that, my navigator took me through the middle of Wisconsin over some wonderful roads. The cool things about driving through this rich, agricultural state are the curves. They are all 90 degrees and none are blind. Needless to say they were fun.

I ran into construction along Wisconsin 64. The traffic signaler said it was dirt for 1 mile! I hit the detour button and ended up taking WI 55 which was nice - curvy and hilly.  Put the hammer down and hit St. Paul around 2030. No sun  just clouds. Wireless internet coverage was nonexistent through Wisconsin and came up once I got to within 30 miles of St. Paul.

Day 2:556 Miles The first task was to get across the border into Canada. It should be a snap -- WRONG. They gave Green Destiny a good going over. It was a very easy reentry into the States. This is my second ride through Ontario on the Trans Canada highway.

Canadian map data in my Copilot was excellent and it was fun to switch to km to watch the distance tick by a bit faster.

The weather started off cloudy with a few sprinkles but ended up with sunshine at the end. Still a bit chilly ( <55F) but I kept the top down. It hasn't been up since I started. The speed limits in Canada are a bit lower and with no radar detector you have to stay with the traffic. So, the 556 miles took until 2130 due to the border thing and stops for pics. The sun doesn't set until about then anyway. I finished up in Sault Saint Marie. Wireless service was non existent in Canada so no Live mapping today. Oh, gas in Canada is near $3 per gallon. Tomorrow - St. Paul!

Day 1:177 Miles I started a bit later than anticipated so didn't get as far as I hoped. I only covered 177 miles with not one mile of interstate. I did have the top down the whole way. By riding in a convertible, it lets you experience the landscape in an olfactory way. This time of year the smells vary from mile to mile: from fresh spread manure, to cut grass, to burning brush. I saw very little traffic and the run along NY 131 north of Massena was especially nice. The section of road along the St. Lawrence river is called the Seaway Trail.

I finished in Ogdensburg -- too cold to camp out. Tomorrow I'll cross the bridge into Canada and try to make it to Sault St. Marie to end day 2. Wonder what the customs agent will say when I answer the typical question: "What is your destination?"